Marking its 10th anniversary, Labyrinth by Chef Han Li Guang continues to redefine Singaporean cuisine. Since opening in 2014, Labyrinth has become synonymous with heritage preservation, culinary creativity, and local ingredients, evolving into a highly-regarded fine dining experience. This October 2024, Chef Han and his team have brought a fresh perspective, exploring Singapore’s food heritage through a new, refined lens. The 13-course dinner menu ($298++) is a tribute to Singapore’s culinary traditions, reimagined with precision and artistry.
Bak Kut Teh Consomme 4.5/5
Our meal opened with the Bak Kut Teh Consommé. This starter was a delicate yet flavourful dashi broth, capturing the essence of traditional Bak Kut Teh without overpowering the palate. Serving this as a first course was a thoughtful nod to Singaporean dining culture, where a light soup often begins the meal to whet the appetite. It was an impressive, nuanced start.
Ramly Burger 4.2/5
The Ramly Burger was a playful miniature inspired by the iconic Ramly burger from Pasar Malams (local night markets). Labyrinth’s version features an aburi hand-chopped beef flank patty wrapped in an eggy parcel, with tomato meringue buns topped with sesame seeds. Topped with Labyrinth’s “Ramly sauce” and mustard cress, this bite-sized snack delivered nostalgia and innovation in one.
Oyster Bao 4.8/5
My favourite snack, the Oyster Bao, was Labyrinth’s take on the disappearing Fuzhou Haobing street snack. This bao used a David Herve oyster no.4 and a delicate espuma batter to create a beignet-like texture. The flavours were layered and precise, with a light, airy crust surrounding the oyster — a beautifully elevated version of a rare street food.
Hainanese Curry Puff 4/5
Dubbed the Old Han Kee, Labyrinth’s Hainanese Curry Puff pays homage to Singapore’s iconic curry puff brand, Old Chang Kee. It is filled with oyster mushrooms, sweet corn, sweet potato, and braised pork belly and served with garlic aioli for extra richness. It is a satisfying and comforting bite.
Satay Club 4.2/5
Named after Singapore’s historic Satay Club, this course featured two skewers — a Pork Satay and a Chicken Tsukune. The pork skewers, with loin and jowl, offered contrasting textures, reminiscent of Hainanese satay, while the tsukune encased a quail egg and was inspired by Japanese tsukune and Scotch egg. Paired with Filipino kare-kare peanut sauce, the skewers captured the essence of Southeast Asia’s diverse satay styles.
RotiBoy 4.2/5
Labyrinth’s RotiBoy transported me back to childhood with its coffee-flavoured craquelin atop a soft brioche filled with Bordier seaweed butter. The nostalgic flavours of Singapore’s popular coffee bun were beautifully recreated, with subtle sweetness and a light coffee aroma.
Wartime Rojak 4.5/5
Inspired by an old recipe from the 1942-1950 cookbook “Wartime Kitchen,” the Wartime Rojak reimagines a British-influenced Asian salad. Beetroot was prepared as a rosette and sorbet, accompanied by cucumber and lettuce granite, pineapple, and herbs like shiso. It was a refreshing, complex dish with sweet, savoury, and acidic notes, embodying the essence of rojak in a contemporary way. Notably, this dish replaced Labyrinth’s iconic Chilli Crab, reflecting the restaurant’s commitment to continual evolution.
Fish Maw Char Kway Teow 4.5/5
Labyrinth introduced Char Kway Teow with a twist, using NZ barramundi fish maw as the “noodle.” Cooked to a similar shape and texture, the fish maw absorbed flavours of fish sauce, soy sauce, and oyster sauce and was topped with abalone and liver sausage. This elevated take on the hawker staple was comforting, with layers of umami richness.
Laksa Siglap 3.8/5
A different interpretation of laksa, Laksa Siglap used a fish-based broth with lasam noodles made from tapioca and rice flour. Medai fish slices, prepared with a velveting technique, gave a silky texture. While less creamy than traditional laksa, this version was nuanced and delicate.
Chicken Rice 4.5/5
Labyrinth’s Chicken Rice was a beautifully composed dish with three components. French poulet breast was layered with a flavourful chicken farce and poached perfectly. The rice, a blend of Jasmine and Koshihikari grains, was cooked in a donabe for a smoky flavour, accompanied by cockscomb and chives. A grilled chicken heart skewer added depth, with each element contributing to the classic flavours in a modern format.
Pisang Goreng 4.5/5
A refined version of Pisang Goreng, this dessert featured a caramelised banana sorbet wrapped in a crispy dough and paired with spiced saffron pastry cream. The sweet and savoury notes balanced perfectly, transforming the beloved street food into a luxurious dessert experience.
Cereal Prawn 4/5
Labyrinth’s Cereal Prawn reinterpreted the classic zichar dish in dessert form. This unique creation included oatmeal ice cream infused with 20-year Shaoxing wine, salted egg foam, warabi mochi, and goji berries soaked in Shaoxing wine. Served with a playful “Chef-branded” cereal box filled with puffed rice and caramelised oats, it was a delightful and nostalgic end to the main courses.
Tang Yuan 3.5/5
The Tang Yuan was a warm, comforting dessert that replaced the usual petit fours. The dumpling, filled with Azuki red beans and tangerine peel, was served in a ginger and rice wine syrup, symbolising completion and togetherness. However, the rice wine syrup may not appeal to all, though it provided an interesting twist.
Labyrinth’s 10th anniversary menu beautifully celebrates Singapore’s culinary heritage, reinvented with finesse. Chef Han’s commitment to local flavours, ingredients, and history is evident in each dish, creating a nostalgic and forward-thinking experience. Labyrinth’s new menu is a must-try for those seeking a deeply thoughtful, innovative journey through Singaporean flavours.
Note: This is an inviting tasting.
Labyrinth
Esplanade Mall
8 Raffles Avenue
#02-23
Singapore 039802
Tel: +65 62234098
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Nearest MRT: Esplanade (CC Line)
Opening Hours:
Tue-Fri: 12pm – 230pm, 630pm – 1030pm
Sat-Sun: 630pm – 1030pm
Direction:
1) Alight at Esplanade MRT station. Take Exit B or D. Walk to Raffles Avenue. Cross the road. Walk to destination. Journey time about 8 minutes. [Map]